2016년 12월 8일 목요일

Alpine Electronics climbing

Alpine Electronics climbing

It is "mountain climbing of the Alps wind in Europe", but Alpine Electronics climbing usually means rock face climbing in the mountains area when I translate it literally.

Table of contents

Purpose

Because it is, anyway, to finish climbing a main purpose climbing the top and wall in itself unlike free climbing, I add it to a technique of the free climbing and I use the technique of the artificial climbing (aid climbing) and climb it. In late years redefinition of the Alpine Electronics climbing is performed lively in "Taketo" magazine, and, as for the category of the Alpine Electronics climbing and the rock face climbing in the summer mountains area that has been done, there is the opinion not to be Alpine Electronics climbing conventionally (actually, the rock face climbing in the summer mountains area has more things called "this Chan" in Japan).

Means, method

The Alpine Electronics climbing may be carried out alone, but two people or a further party is crossed in many cases. While one leads you in a state linked with a rope each other, in the case of two people, 隔時登攀 (studio cut) which one already does biRei (security) is performed, but simultaneous climbing (コンテニュアス, popular name continuity) that two climb at the same time is performed when there is not the meaning of the bilei at an easy place and a snowy slope. Some safety is kept by a lead setting up the middle fulcrum at the time of the continuity action, and letting a rope go through.

There are two choices by the attributive degree of the progress means.

Free climbing

The progress means that is main by the Alpine Electronics climbing is free climbing. It is often climbed in the state of "crampons gloves" for the snow period.

Artificial climbing

When hands and feet or curan is や Weill pop and can never exceed it, I set the thing such as a cam and nuts, piton and the hook and will exceed it by artificial climbing to hang a stirrup (rope ladder) in it, and to climb. As for the bolt, the routes which rang a bolt repeatedly linearly once were mass-produced to be able to hit it anywhere if I intend to beat, but tend that such a route is denied now. Among the climbers who are a radical mark, there is a debate whether can be permitted saying that I do not use whether you use the bolt or use it if it is what kind of case. If there is the person whom the bolt should erase, there is the opinion whether is OK partly of routes. In addition, I attach grade written in A when I use man-made means. A0 is shown in the cases that I catch a karate stick and climbed with piton as a scaffold. The full-scale artificial climbing using the stirrup is shown by notation from A1 to A5 by crash expectation distance.

There are some classifications by the state of the wall to climb.

Ice climbing

When I choose ルンゼ for a rational root to the top for the snow period, ice climbing that eye Suva yl and curan stick を into ice pop and climb is performed if ice develops. Ice climbing is stimulating climbing, and itself is like excitement and can also climb it speedily and can install the instant and strong fulcrum by an ice screw if ice is thick, but will usually climb the ice (verglas) which it formed on thinly without ice developing under the influence of global warming while cooling the liver.

Mixture climbing

When the ice on the route comes out by ice climbing intermittently, curan hangs や Weill on a rock called the mixture climbing pop and climbs it and is a feeling to transfer to the ice which occasionally comes out.

In late years, in Hokkaido and Tohoku, the mixture climbing of the kind to use a bolt installed in the great hang of the suburban rocky place beforehand for as the fulcrum is performed, but, as for this, may be called neighborhood, "スポートミックス" on "a slope" in the, if anything, free climbing.

The thing which can say that it is Alpine Electronics climbing is performed in an altitude zone above the glacier, and it originally depends on this reason that the climbing of each gully of the Ben Nevis mountain in Scotland is not called Alpine Electronics. In Japan, various discussions have been accomplished in the past, but the thing that it is said as for the opinion of the thing climbing in battle front to return it to the original meaning is mainstream now. It is a thing by such circumstances that the naming of the climbers meeting is not an Alpine Electronics climbers meeting for the winter when active climbers gather from the various parts of Japan and are performed.

However, it is generally the following recognition because the generation who is not affected by such a young appearance occupies many of the climbing population.

Example of the concrete Alpine Electronics climbing

I give a case of the climbing that is considered below to be Alpine Electronics climbing.

  • Rock face climbing (this so-called Chan) of the mountains area in the summer.
  • The climbing of the route reclaimed in summer in the domestic snow period. So-called winter obstacle.
  • It is climbing in the winter season to climb the route to be able to enjoy in a thing more for the route and the snow period to be able to climb only for the snow period for a waterfall and ルンゼ which froze existing in a rock face of the mountains area in the domestic snow period or steep snow ridges.

などがある. There is room for the discussion whether you assume ice climbing and mixture climbing to be carried out in a close area from the forest roads Alpine Electronics climbing.

In addition, in late years, as for the swimming and the river trekking for ゴルジュ using many breakthroughs carried out flourishingly, there are a lot of Alpine Electronics climbing-like cases than "this Chan", but there is few it when I name such a river trekking Alpine Electronics climbing. The river trekking be called Japan's original mountain climbing form rather than a field for one minute of the Alpine Electronics climbing and is the situation inviting the situation that is new by a technique of the free climbing and Alpine Electronics climbing having been introduced to.

This Chan and multi-pace

I point to the rock face climbing in the mountains area. In late years words "multi-pace" came to be used many by similar words, but I relatively consider it, and there is following difference in both.

  • Artificial climbing is accepted in this Chan, but is not often accepted with the multi-pace.
  • In comparison with the route of this Chan, the rock of the route said to be multi-pace is relatively firm.
  • This Chan is performed in a core part of the mountains area, and the multi-pace often intends for a good place of the comparative approach including an area and the suburbs of the gendarme of the mountains area.

It is difficult to pursue climbing by the free climbing in mountains area, and it meets reason that rock face climbing by the free climbing is pursued in an area easy for you of the climatic condition if I think about climatic condition, but some climbers who had speed and physical strength, technique climb the large rock face in the core region of the mountains area for a sense of the general multi-pace, and there is the part by the nature of the person you call where with multi-pace, and where you call with this Chan. It is thought that wall in itself influences a lot of atmospheres to have.

Tool of the Alpine Electronics climbing

In the case of no snow period, I it

Other than a tool to use even the traditional climbing such as カミングデバイス (cam) and nuts for, I may use the tool such as piton and the hook. The piton hammers it in into the thin crack which is not usable of a cam and nuts with a hammer. The support power turns big by the casting situation, and there is considerable security if a bit big piton such as the lost arrow is decided so good. On the contrary, it is left a lot the mild steel piton which got rusty into pieces if it reaches this Chan, and these most cannot endure a crash and are not the thing which is reliable as progress use of the artificial climbing. With a hook to hang the hook on a rock literally, and to use, it is for progress mainly.

In the case of climbing, I it in the winter season

I wear the clothing which is thicker than no snow period. In many cases, a three lei yard system wearing outerwear processed into the underwear of the chemical fiber with Gore-Tex outside autumn clothes, the first in hair and a chemical fiber is adopted, but in late years a review advances by the appearances of the software shell. Because demand is high, a change is intense, and it is the first to check, but, as for the wear, as for the wear that "there is not the loser", a lei yard based on a true experience and the theory of the author in the hard core human body laboratory which is a serialization article of lock and Snow is introduced by the salesclerk of a magazine and the outfitter from a hiker to a climber if I aim at the best lei yard. For an article about direct climbing, the equipment for the summer increases the protections such as an ice screw and ice piton, Snow bar or the deadman.

In addition, as for the availability of traffic facilities, curan attaches (crampons) to 重登山靴 for the winter to plastic boots pop. When there is much snow, curan attaches a ring-shaped snowshoes and snow shoes pop as a substitute for の.

I hold ice Ax in a hand. Ice Ax call the thing of the classic design to use for winter mountain mountain traversing an ice ax, and the thing which a shaft and pick used by ice climbing curved to is often called Weill. I am reliable at the point where an inclination resists so that a curve is big, but Weill of the curve that is too big in the loose place of the slant becomes hard to use it. In the case of the snowstorm, I protect eyes with goggles.

Grade

For an index to express the relative difficulty of the rock, notation of the grade is prescribed, but is always controversial to be really based on the subjectivity of the person attaching grade. The grade level in the rocky place of nature becomes the positioning of a tentative aim indicating the relative relative difficulty in the area.

Grade of no snow period

For no snow period, a lot of RCC II grade is used. The RCC II grade begins with I grade and becomes difficult whenever numbers increase. Generally VI grade is free climbing and is equivalent to "5.9" in used Yosemite デジマルシステム and, in the case of further relative difficulty, conventionally often transcribes it in デジマルシステム. Therefore, judging from a standard of the current free climbing, I see the route such as the RCC II grade ○ grade easily, and, actually, move in itself is easy, but a feeling of badness and altitude of the protection becomes the pressure. Because I did it this way, as for the subjective toughness of this Chan, there are many thing in before and after 4 grade in the route of the free climbing and people saying that I feel it equally (e.g., 5.10 VI grade is equivalent in the latter half).

Grade of the snow period

There is the feeling that the grade that Jeff Lowe proposed took root in by ice climbing and the mixture climbing. WI (water ice), the mixture climbing express M, the soft snow such as the snow ridge and the strenuous efforts-like snow with AI (Alpine Electronics ice), and, according to the definition of Jeff Lowe, the pure ice climbing such as the icefall touches a number to express relative difficulty after these English letters. Properties are different, but WI4, M4, AI4 are relative difficulty at the same level each, and it is said to Yosemite デジマルシステム of the free climbing that it becomes about 5.8-5.9 when I cure it. A problem of the M12 degree (according to Jeff Lowe, M8 is equivalent to 5.13) becomes the highest now in the world of the sports mixture. By the Alpine Electronics climbing, the root that the core of M7 - eight classes comes up in the tall and stout route is opened up in Alaska.

Exercise method

It is a skill of the free climbing and physical strength and experience to become basic. Therefore, it performs free climbing by climbing gyms so that work returns on weekdays, and it challenges the rock face of the mountains area on the weekend, and it climbs the suburban "rocky place for this Chan" being conscious of speed or it handles the number, and it does it, and it loads experience, and it is common to forge the part which is not forged by the weekday gym.

Well-known Alpine Electronics climber

Allied item

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