Kota Rudy
The variety of the tunic called the cot which was devised with Kota Rudy (the French cot that cotardie / is bold) in Italy in the thirteenth century, and spread out in the Europe society from the middle of the 14th century.
It was a word to hint at cause Italian certain clothes for women, but it came to be employed man and woman together, and this name was used until the 15th century. After the 15th century, it comes to be changed for the Pooh reportage one of the meaning called "one of quilting sewing" Kota Rudy of the man.
Length of the degree that a shape is greatly different in man and woman, and the man covers the buttocks. The woman was tall and stout so as to pull a hem on the floor. Both were just prepared to a body, and a decollete (greatly deep neckline) was turned on.
Kota Rudy of the man was very tight and had a short length whereas the clothes of the man of the previous period were clothes slow for a long time, and there was much exposure of the skin, too. In addition, it is the clothes which the fastening in front such as the caftan of the Near and Middle East was added to for the first time and is the clothes which a button having the function like the modern button was used for for the first time. Clothes are historic, and the outbreak of Kota Rudy is the big turning point of the mode of clothes for men.
Birth of Kota Rudy
In the about thirteenth century, the armament in Europe greets a big turning point. The armor of knights changed from a common chain email (chain mail) to the armor which processed an iron plate called plate Armour till then in these days.
Because the chain email had a shape of the dress to knee length, I was able to wear slow clothes under an armor. It was effective for a bow and arrow and a knife, the defense of the sword of the wide blade, but hardly made sense for the attack with some weight. In addition, I nailed an iron plate over gloves and the shin guards such as hides with a tack and did it and allotted it for an assistance armor because an arm and a bent were not covered.
In plate Armour, the use of the supporting iron plate extended to the whole body, and Milan, Italy is known as a main production base. I was proud of the superior durability for a blow and became popular very much because it was mobile.
I wore clothes of the quilting called ギャンベゾン under an armor, but gentle gambeson was not worn because plate Armour was hard to move when I did not just fit a body. Knights will wear tight clothes to a body necessarily.
This ギャンベゾン is a model of Kota Rudy.
Originally light clothes have been bought by a warm climate, and, in Italy leading big production center Milan of plate Armour, the clothes which have a short it, and are light which the line of the body appears among youths clearly are prevalent in an instant. There is the reason why a button brought in what was able to sew tight clothes in Italy from the east world was known to quickly. The birthplace of the button was used widely in the Near and Middle East that wore clothes of the slow fastening in front without the okumi in China, and I was brought in Europe by merchants of the Muslim. I was able to prepare tight clothes to the body which was impossible to European clothes to tie it up with a previous string, and to keep with a broach by using many buttons.
Reception in the Europe society
The clothes that the line of the body was bare were reached with great surprise unlike conventional slow clothes in the Europe society.
The loathsomeness is written down for the article of 1367 of the chronicle of Mainz openly saying "the human stupidity is decided, and buttocks are seen when I wore a jacket having a short it hiding in neither the private parts nor the buttocks, and the youth bows, are the feeling embarrassed that it is unbelievable as what in those days!".
In the Saint-Denis University chronicle, God concludes with an angry result in the defeat of the fight of クレシー having been addicted to the short clothes that the French are shameless. Because "there was the person who wore extremely short clothes inside, and they were seen to the person who stood behind when I bowed to a certain person to underpants and the bottom, and these pants were hard at all, the help of the person was necessary as if I barked it to take it off, and to wear it."
The loathsomeness to here did not seem to be held about Kota Rudy of the woman, but ladies greatly broke the side of surrealism Coe to show off the line of the slim waist which became bare with new-type clothes and enraged a clergyman. In addition, I was excited at it being raging to trail a hem for a long time, and pulling the pull hem which had a long women in Europe. In city Kreuz Buruk of Silesia, it allows a citizen's woman to pull a pull hem to 4 エレ or 5 エレ, and it is indicated that the pull hem of the lady was a thing having a long it much more. The pull hem made the clergyman angry and, in the Francisco society, refused that I gave the person who pulled it, and touched a hem the permission among the women who came for confession.
References
Not only you enumerate it, but also please state the source clearly using footnotes whether it is the source of information of which description. I would like cooperation for the reliability improvement of the article. (June, 2015) |
- Iku Tanno edition "西洋服飾史増訂版" Tokyo temple publication ISBN 4-490-20367-5
- Norio Chimura "history Kamakura bookshop ISBN 4-308-00547-7 of the fashion"
- Akiko Fukai supervision "history of world outfitting art publishing company ISBN 4-568-40042-2 for color"
- Noriko Hirai "archives selected books ISBN 978-4-8169-2103-2 of the clothing" out of the day
- John Peacock "West costume perfection" ISBN 978-4-7661-0802-6
- Auguste Racinet "history of clothes Middle Ages edition I" marl company ISBN 4-8373-0719-1
This article is taken from the Japanese Wikipedia Kota Rudy
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