2017년 4월 2일 일요일

Outfitting

Outfitting

The Emperor Meiji family in clothes and a kimono. Kasai tiger Jiro image.
Each chief of state brain which wore Vietnamese race clothes アオザイ in APEC2006

With the outfitting (ふくしょく), clothes and the accessories (accessories) kind that a person wears on the body are those combinatorial styles again. I say clothes (apparel) (I am and occur) and I pay attention to the clothing in particular again and say the clothes (congestion). In the term outfitting and clothes mainly of two is used, and there is one and one is approximately synonymous with clothes, clothing and is used, and a figure (wearing figure) which a body and clothes unified as for the other points to the combinatorial style of those uniformity again [1]. I discuss it about the latter in this clause mainly.

The outfitting varies according to the times, a race, an area, sex, age, rank, an occupation, and a different style is used again by the wearing opportunity. Those styles are strengthened by a ban and a dress code (dress code) and a fashion (the fashion) or nationalism, nationalism, and, in human being society, the style of much outfitting becomes that I express specific attribute or thought. The race clothes (folk costume) express local (or the exile) identity and emphasize originality of the culture, and they become in particular the source of the national dignity. In addition, in a rite of passage and public holidays and festival days, special clothes are often worn on a holiday. For example, it is special gorgeous kimonos such as special clothes, New Year or Christmas of the coming-of-age ceremony.

As for the outfitting, as for the basics, own situation, situation, the style that accepted taste again are chosen, but outfitting unlike it may be worn intentionally. For example, it is disguise, a drama or makeup in the theatrical art to enjoy disguise to hide own viewpoint, and to be active, the clothing of the situation different temporarily. Disguise may be demanded as special clothes such as a masked ball and the carnival in the Christianity cultural sphere, Halloween in the United States of America.

Table of contents

Change of the outfitting

 
Portrait of Marie Antoinette who wore an enlarged pannier
 
Modern cheerleader

Not only the outfitting varies according to an area or a situation, but also it changes. Yasuro Ogawa summarizes the principle of the change in next 20 items [2].

  1. Environmental adaptation - outfitting becomes the thing which adapted to natural environments (climates) and social environment (having political system, economic conditions, religion, war or not).
  2. The power of the exogenous change by endogenous superiority - natural environments and the social environment (regulation in particular) and the power of the endogenous change to demand comfort and newness, beauty, extravagance are often opposed, and an in the long term endogenous change is superior (a thing and the uniform that a ban is broken simplify it in the long term).
  3. Superior rule - outfitting spreads in the low group from the group which is high in degree of the culture development (introduction of the outfitting system of Sui, Tang in ancient Japan). On the other hand, the new group which became superior overthrows the outfitting of the traditional group politically (changes from Roma-like outfitting by the German migration of nations to the archetype of current clothes, change of the outfitting in the revolutions such as sun culottes).
  4. The outfitting of an imitation flow - new fashion type and the modified form performs the spread spread (the flow) by imitation and rearranges an old form. There are the imitation of the group where a high rank is superior for imitation, the imitation that paid its attention to a function side, the revival of the past form, following-like imitation by the group psychology, the creative imitation that added originality. There is the fashion that a specific form is imitated temporarily and opens while a specific form may be handed down in the same group. The fashion in the group is amplified by the media such as a magazine or TV. When popular outfitting spreads and fixes it, it becomes manners and customs, the custom with social compelling force.
  5. The outfitting performs 漸変 even if I do not force it 漸変慣化 - consciously. In addition, 漸変 is received easily by human custom (a skirt gradually shortened, and a miniskirt was commonly used). The artificial sudden change is hard to take root in the society to be too strong in stimulation.
  6. I simplify it and I am multistoried and become light dress, and reverse changes such as enlargement, the reduction are repeated backward movement change - complexity in turn. Decoration increases for expressing it and gets heavy and formalizes authority, and the practical outfitting becomes the formal dress. Because the formal, decorative outfitting is tight, it becomes simple and becomes light dress.
  7. When 競進反転 - characteristic-like form begins to be popular, by the competition in the group, the change of the form suddenly goes and reaches the extreme form (I become the lowest part, the long leading others with a limitless virtue such as crinolines, the extreme of the corset and become the extreme of exposure and light clothes). When the change of the form reaches the pole, it is in an insanitary state, and it is sometimes lack of economy or ill health, and the criticism gets up, too, and the fashion turns over. And the form is kept as traditional outfitting and returns to an original form and degenerates and switches it to a different form or merely becomes extinct.
  8. Table clothes ecdysis - table clothes disappear, and the thing which was underwear becomes table clothes (the shirt which was the shifts from a ceremonial dress to a padded silk garment, the underwear of the suit becomes table clothes).
  9. Form promotion - plain outfitting becomes complicated, and outfitting in common use becomes the formal dress, and the outfitting of the common people is taken in by a noble (I become the formal dress of the samurai family of the court dress which was the outfitting of the common people and become full dress of the tunicle in the ancient Roman age).
  10. Formality drop - formal dress is simplified, and formality is lost because low-ranking people wear the outfitting of the upper class (a color, a geological feature permitted only a patrician comes to be used for the common people).
  11. Affiliated differentiation - form used for a long time is gradually subdivided. A simpler thing is born in a similar line (differentiation of a large pattern and the clothes with crest of samurai from a court dress) and differentiates every rank of the user and differentiates according to a use (various coats).
  12. When the thing which had the practical function becomes needless, disused degeneration - beginning degenerates and merely remains as decoration and is omitted and becomes extinct (cuts of a button and the lapel of the sleeve of suit).
  13. Similar outfitting occurs by natural environments and the resemblance of the culture standard or human structure of the human body and universal psychology unrelated of the same class - unrelated area separated from it in the times (the lowest part and a train, chopine and wooden clogs with high supports, chador and a stamp sputum equal).
  14. Sex differences are expressed by sex opposition - shape and a color, but the opposition of sex differences is big among in the times when it is peaceful and is wealthy or the nobles of upper reaches, and opposition tends to be small among the lower layer common people again in a war bottom and the poor times. On the other hand, the fashion of the outfitting, the sex switch that a man borrows a woman or woman's disguise from a functional reason by wearing men's clothes again often get up. In addition, the transvestism using opposition of the sex is carried out, too.
  15. And a foreign factor is taken in by outfitting of fusion digestion - convention and does fusion (changes of ブリオー by the influence of the Crusade expedition that a usual element and a foreign factor mix approximately equally), digestion (the spread of skirt pantaloons affected by the European medieval culture that a foreign factor was dismantled and promoted new form outbreak of the convention outfitting), a concoction (to the formal Japanese wear which each form just mixes it, and is worn the clothes of the derby hat) or does coexistence (coexistence of clothes and the kimono).
  16. The outfitting from old days may be left in the area with a few inflows of the culture including stagnation survival - mountains and the isolated island department. Clothes of the modern outfitting if bring it to the mainstream, all the race clothes of each place can interpret it as a stagnation relic example.
  17. A specific form develops originally and, under isolated overripeness - environment that stands alone and was stable, becomes overripe (outfitting of the Crete civilization, Japanese outfitting of the Edo era).
  18. Almost none of the outfitting changes in the flow of unchangeable fixation - outfitting during several hundred years from several decades and may colonize as manners and customs (race clothes of each place).
  19. I return to structure, menstruation of foundation type return - human body, a basic outfitting form (foundation type) that fitted human psychology again repeatedly.
  20. If international interchange becomes active, commonization of the global outfitting happens by the development of international assimilation - traffic, communication.

Stage costume

 
The actor who wore clothes by Bristol Renaissance fair of 2006
 
The clothes which are used in drama art of India, ヤクシャガナ (Yakshagana)

The clothes (apparel, clothes, costume) are very important elements by a drama and a movie, the TV drama. The clothes give you even the information about the weather in age, sex, an occupation, rank, the personality of the position whom an actor plays, the times when, besides, they are played, a geographical place and the date and time, a season. In addition, it is performed to emphasize the character of the person by the stage costume which is stylized, and was exaggerated.


Footnote

  1. ^ Encyclopaedia Britannica "clothes"
  2. ^ Yasuro Ogawa "principle culture publication station of the outfitting change", 1981.

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