A kimono without the lining to wear with peaceful attire. I wore a padded silk garment, a hakama and put. It was underwear, but a skin padded silk garment was invented in last years of Insei and originally became the arrival at average. A shape includes some differences in men and women, and the woman business has a long length than a man. I am most greatly made in the clothes of the woman. It is often omitted with the Shinto priest attire.
I explain 2 mainly as follows
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Shape
I call the edge with "a thread torsion" (いとひねり) not to come loose with body Japanese petticoat, wide sleeve scroll, square collar, single の clothes and sew it with a thread or I call it with "a paste torsion" (paste twist) and touch paste and am rounded.
Male
Body Japanese petticoat, wide sleeve scroll, square collar, 闕腋, height of the waist, single の clothes.
In other words, clothes of the height of the waist that there is back sewing, and around 70 centimeters in width, the sleeve which is greatly opening without the cuffs of around 40 centimeters of length of a kimono sleeve being sewed, the kimono-like collar, side are not sewed. With an intricate design of plain silk or 菱模様, I use the red basically. But, as for the young person, the person uses the white for a dead leaf, the old man in deep color (purple), the prime of life. A color and the design are free in the casual wear which is everyday wear.
Because even an about the same thing is called 衵 (Ako) when I line it, I am careful. This 衵 might repeat how many it was on the unlined clothes including cold time and might use it as "ひへぎ" which removed lining in the summer. "染衵" means that I use the thing except the red in a festival in particular. 袿 was the thing which had a long length of 衵 and called the fashion which peeped out from a hem of the casual wear with "soup stock clothes" (いだしぎぬ).
Woman
Body Japanese petticoat, wide sleeve scroll, square collar, sewing together under the arms, the hem head, single の clothes.
In the modern royalty girl, as for the single person, the design is 幸菱 in deep color. It is custom that the married person uses 紅幸菱. The nominated officer is 紅幸菱 among court ladies, but the official appointed by the Emperor is 黄幸菱.
Reference materials
竜村譲 "kimono Nakakou new book of Japan"
Ken Kirihata "history of Japanese woman manners and customs" purple rouge company library
Yoshikazu Kondo "the Japanese history peace noble of the attire having worn what" or Heibonsha Publishers Ltd. new book
Moriteru Nagasaki "配彩美 blue illusion company of the amorous glances peace of the seed"
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Various names include "彰考館, Tokugawa Museum" "彰考館徳川博物館" "Mito Tokugawa Museum" "Tokugawa Museum" "彰考館", but become "彰考館徳川博物館" in the registration based on the museum method.
As the Sea God's Palace Akinori meeting which was a mother's body Foundation became the reorganization in public interest Tokugawa museum Foundation on April 1, 2011, it was renamed to "Tokugawa museum" [1].
1977： By 14s present head of a household Kuninari Tokugawa, I build the Tokugawa Museum as ancient documents, display facilities of tools and am opened.
The installer of 彰考館徳川博物館 is public interest Tokugawa museum Foundation. Including Mitsukuni Tokugawa, a thing coming from Mito feudal lord is handled.
There is the exhibition room of three of the first exhibition room, the second exhibition room, the third exhibition room, and the second exhibition room and the third exhibition room are used for a temporary exhibition for a permanent exhibition the first exhibition room when normal. There is a garden in the depths; to Kairaku-en Garden although cannot go through it, many trees are seen.
A tea room includes "a garden terrace" and is available in most time during an opening time. In addition, the storage of document of 彰考館文庫 which assumes 彰考館 which edited large Japanese history the origin is put in a site.
Cultural assets
Important cultural property
ドチリーナ Christian (Christian era 1600 for Roman Catholic)
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The temple belonging to a shrine storehouse Asuka era out of paradise embroidered hangings
The outfitting of the woman of the figure of Hideyori Kanou writing brush Takao maple-tree viewing Tokyo National Museum storehouse about the end of 16th century. As for the woman of the right-side end, as for the third woman nursing, the crossroads of the alternate-panel kimono-making wear a padded silk garment of the dye in cherry blossom color in white from dye in cherry blossom color, the right the げの crossroads in the purple place.
In the dyeing and weaving industrial arts (にほんのせんしょくこうげい) of this clause Japan, I survey the technique, history about a thing belonging to dyeing and weaving namely "dyeing" and the field of "the texture" among Japanese traditional industrial art objects. In addition, I do not handle it in this clause because each has an inherent historic cultural background about dyeing and weaving of Ryukyu and the dyeing and weaving of Ainu among dyeing and weaving industrial art objects produced in the area of the Japanese Islands.
"The dyeing and weaving" is different from "the dyeing" of the same reading of in a meaning. "Dyeing and weaving" refers to "dyeing" and "a texture" literally, but it makes "cloth" using the fiber which included knitting, embroidery, an applique, patchwork, felt other than dyed goods, a textile, and, with "the dyeing and weaving in the field of industrial arts," it is custom that point to the product made by the technique that 加飾 does this and such a technique. [1][2]
The Japanese dyeing and weaving industrial arts begins under the strong influence of China and the Korean Peninsula which were an advanced area like other fields of the arts and crafts, and influence of Sui, Tang is slightly remarkable for Horyu-ji Temple tear to precede in 正倉院裂 (running out of) in the eighth century and this. The dyeing and weaving after the Heian era intensified sum weathering led by a court noble, but, on the other hand, the Chinese (Soong, the basislight) textile was valued high through each time, and the dyed goods (printed cotton) of European woolen stuff (thick close-woven wool cloth) and the Indian cotton were brought the last years later in the Middle Ages by overseas trading, too. The leading figure of the dyeing and weaving culture spread from a court noble, the samurai family through a merchant, the farmer in the early modern times, and various dyeing and weaving products including silk fabrics and dyed goods of the cotton produced in noh costume, each place that were a Yuzen process, stage costume where I finished dyeing various pictorial patterns in were produced. "The padded silk garment" worn regardless of top and bottom of the social position in particular becomes the model of "the kimono" of modern times, and, in kimono, it is for an international language as a pronoun of the Japanese traditional dress. After the modern times, the dyeing and weaving by the traditional material, technique finishes a former role by Westernization of the life and a chemical fiber, the spread of chemical dye and keeps existence as a tradition industrial art object, an intangible cultural asset.
Table of contents
Material
The material which was mainly used for Japanese traditional dyeing and weaving industrial arts is silk, hemp, cotton. Of these, there is that cotton comes to be used widely after the early modern times when cultivation of the cotton spreads.
A thread and cloth
A textile is called "cloth" (ふはく) collectively, and it originally unifies all "the cloth" by "cloth" notation in order to avoid complicatedness in this clause as follows that vegetable "cloth" (Azabu in particular), "帛" point at silk fabrics. Terms "裂" (sharp) are used many referring to a dyeing and weaving product, too and use it like "名物裂" "正倉院裂".
The human made a thread from vegetism and animal various fiber and, using it, created the products such as clothes, accessories. It is no exception in the Japanese Islands. The people drew out a thread from the cocoon of the silkworm or tore up the bast (じんぴ) fiber such as a stem or the trunk of the plant and took out fiber and they bundled it and made a thread. "紡 (pile up) ぐ" expresses latter work by former work with "績 (う) む" [3]. I spin it, and the 績 んだりした thread is just only one line, but the thread changes into a two-dimensional "aspect" called the cloth in this way by hanging this in the plane (はた), and doing it with the warp (たていと), and letting a weft (ぬきいと, よこいと) pick quarrel with this, and finishing weaving it. Work to process this thread into "a mask" from "a line" is "a texture" [4]. On the basis of the simplest "plain weave that the intersecting warp and weft float to the textile by one of them in turn and set and only do," plain silk (not good), an intricate design, satin (satin), brocade, Luo, a lawn, silk gauze, cloth of gold, damask (どんす), embroidered silk (りんず), the cloth with various names including the crepe are made by differences such as how to weave, material, 加飾方法. Match the cloth which weaves it, and went up with the use and cut it, and seam it together and put processing such as touching a color and a design. On the other hand, using the dye which I took out of a plant or an animal (insect), work to make coloring on a thread and cloth "is dyed". There is various technique including the method (piece-dyed) to touch a color on a method (yarn-dyed) to express a pattern by weaving it using a string of the samisen which I colored into various colors beforehand in this, the cloth which weaves it with this adversely, and went up it. I embroider it on 加飾方法 of the cloth as well as "dyeing", and there are an applique, a drawing (representing the picture direct in the cloth surface), various technique including the laying gold and silver gilt on (I stick gold leaf). There is the method "that I arrange" other than "I weave it" for a method to make cloth from a thread, and there is the nonwoven fabric to make by being precocious after crimp did animal fiber such as the wool like felt (縮絨). In general, including such a technique, I assume fiber material and name an industrial art object to produce by traditional material, technique dyeing and weaving industrial arts.
The warp and weft
The textile is comprised of the warp and a weft. The warp is a thread forming on the weaving machine with length together (it is said with "I warp it" by this work) and is the thread which the weft does the warp and an angle of 90 degrees and picks quarrel with. The weaving machine has various kinds and structure, but I prepare "shuttle" (ひ), the warp to put a weft through between "heddle" (I grow so on), the warps of the top and bottom letting "1,000" (rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo leaves), warp winding "stick slender in the middle" (ちきり) winding the warp around, the cloth which weaves it, and went up it off go up and down basically, and it is from parts such as "reed" (suppose) driving a weft. The weft read with "よこいと", but has been read for a long time with "ぬきいと". If "I see it, and somebody texture るらむ 縦緯 (I keep on putting it up) rather cries the moss of the peak in a song of "Manyoshu tanka collection" Aone of Yoshino," there is it, and "stand and leave out しぐれの rain in the month that is dragon Nishiki, Tagawa をりかく God" in a song in winter of "the sum songbook in the ancient and modern times", and it is the illustration (I read and do not know a person) and the one which there is with (the 1120th song unknown an author) [5].
Silk
Silk
Cocoon of the silkworm
As for the silk, the manufacturing method was invented in China, and is a thread taken out of the cocoon which a silkworm (larva of the silk moth) forms. A cocoon husk and a spindle car have already excavated the silk thread in one of the ancient grand invention of China from remains of the Yangshao culture in Neolithic era, and letters such as "silkworm" "mulberry" "帛" are seen in the inscriptions on bones and tortoise carapaces of Yin charges. The silk was one of the main exports of China so that I was symbolized by calling paths of ancient trade to bind the East-West cultural spheres where the Roman Empire reached Japan via orient, Central Asia, China together with Silk Road (Silk Road). According to "Wei will" "Japan hearsay," silk goods and the manufacturing method were transmitted to Japan in Yayoi period, and the high-quality textile was made with silk exclusively. With the luster that is beautiful when I weave it and get nervous, it is comfortable, and dyed silk is well the material which is indispensable in dyeing and weaving industrial arts in what kind of dye. The feature of the silk is that one thread is very long than there not being length with more than length of the plant of vegetable fiber. As for the thread which I heat a cocoon with hot water and took out, quality of glia (glue) called the sericin overturns from a material called the fibroin in the people a center. It is said with "refinement" or "kneading on fire" by work to boil raw silk with alkaline liquids such as the lye (opens), and to remove sericin, and it is said with raw silk (I do きぎぬ, a bell) with glossed silk, a thing before the refinement with the thing which I refined. I may perform the refinement after weaving and may perform it in the state of the thread. Silk luster increases by refining it, and it is said that the adsorption of the dye improves. [6]
Hemp and cotton
Ramie (ramie)
Cotton of the harvesttime
The hemp was used for the clothes of the common people and thin clothes for the summer in bast (じんぴ) fiber made from cannabis of the hemp department (considered to be a moraceous plant once), the stem of the ramie (ちょま) of the Urticaceae mainly. What came to be cultivated in material used for dyed goods for a long time in Japan was considered to be (1492-1500 years) in India in the Meio era year, and the cotton taken out of a fruit of the cotton came to be cultivated widely in each place after the early modern times. The cotton was used as material such as clothes and a yukata, the furoshiki of the common people widely. [7]
Dye
Safflower
Madder
Purple
A chemical fiber, chemical dye became mainstream after the modern times, but it was all natural fiber, natural dye to have been used for the Japanese traditional dyeing and weaving industrial arts before the early modern times. Dye derived from a plant is most of in the Japanese dyeing and weaving industrial arts. The material which these extract a pigment from a flower, a leaf, a trunk, the root of the specific plant, but it is necessary to use the chemical change with other materials such as lye (open), the alum (alum) because most of of the nature pigment fix a color on a thread and cloth, and helps such dyeing called the mordant [8]. But there is the dye which does not need a mordant like a gardenia (dies, and does). In addition, there is not the dye dyeing cloth white, and there is only the negative method "that I leave undyed" to express "white" with dyed goods [9].
As for the natural dye of the red system, safflower and madder (I do not open) are representative. The part of the flower becomes the dye unlike the safflower (safflower) being a herb of the Compositae, and many other plant dye using a root and a leaf. Because a pigment of red and the yellow is contained to a flower of the safflower, you must let I wash in water to give red, and a yellow pigment flow out. Even if "I do not give rouge," 訓 drags, but this is will of "the indigo plant of Kure" [10]. The madder is a herb of the madder family, and a red pigment is extracted from a root. There are Indian madder and the Western madder of the nail-cover ornamented with a six leaf pattern, but the thing from Japan is Japanese madder of four leaves. Because a pigment of red and the yellow is included in a root of the madder like a flower of the safflower, it is necessary to let a yellow pigment begin to flow beforehand. The dark red develops red or purple by a mordant with dye to extract from the center of the trunk of the sappanwood of the legume. It was the southern plant which did not grow wild in Japan, and naturally the sappanwood was import goods. There was vivid red called the scarlet wool (しょうじょうひ) used elsewhere in the early modern times, but this was import goods by the overseas trading with an animalism pigment called the cochineal which I had stolen from the scale insect which was parasitic on a cactus. The crimson (play) was red to soy sauce-based color names, but this might point to the produced cochineal from scale insect when I pointed to the rouge. [11]
In the case of natural dye, the blue system color is an indigo plant exclusively (indigo). The indigo plant is made from various plants not the name of the single plant. The dyeing due to the indigo plant is seen in the race of all parts of the world, and a Ryukyu indigo plant of the Justicia procumbens department is used in leguminous indigo blue, Ryukyu in India, but it is a Japanese indigo plant of Polygonaceae to be used in Japan. There are several methods to extract a pigment from the leaf of the Japanese indigo plant. There is the method to extract from a green leaf, but it cannot expect that it dyes it from dark indigo blue only for the leaf of the truth close season that green leaf dyeing is possible. There is the deposition method to dip the indigo plant leaf into the alkaline liquids such as the lye, and to precipitate, but it is "law that have been performed widely in Japan after the early modern times though it is not crowded". The process of manufacture also lasts for a long term complicatedly, but at first I dry leaves of the Japanese indigo plant well when I explain it extremely briefly and I am about to repeat water and steam it and let you ferment and make the thing which did it in a state such as the humus afterwards. Though this "is not crowded." I let you soak this though "it is not crowded" in the liquid which mixed sugar such as the sake with alkaline ingredients such as the lye when you use it as dye and ferment, but "building an indigo plant" names this it saying "fermentation be built". The natural indigo plant is prepared by such long-term hard labor. [12][13]
The dark blue of the indigo plant developed most densely. 縹 (a flower), the light blue (Asagi) expressed the green pro-color such as the light green (light green) with a color to occur because of the light and shade of the indigo plant by crossing an indigo plant and yellow [14].
There are many numbers, and the natural dye of the yellow system is made from an Amur cork (Obaku), Termeric (Termeric), a gardenia (gardenia, 支子) other than Arthraxon hispidus (Arthraxon hispidus) of the grass. [15]
What is used as a purple pigment mainly in Japan dips this root into hot water with purple grass of the purple department and extracts it. I spoke dark red and the crimson in the clause of the red system color. 地中海沿岸地域では貝の内臓の色素を用いた貝紫があるが、日本の伝統工芸には使用されていない。 [16]
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